The toss of a coin, the availability of a villa or the time and place of a flight; any of these things could have made us plump for another holiday in the Mani in Greece, instead of Paxos. We love the Peloponnese and have visited a little place called Agios Nicholas many times, which is where you fly to Kalamata to achieve your final destination. Paxos does send you easily into reflective mood, if you allow it, and a major flood like they have just experienced on the mainland (they want it declared a disaster area) simply triggers your subconscious into thinking deeply about your own morbidity. We are all so continuously close to saying goodbye to this planet before our allotted time but who says how long that allotted time should be? I’m not saying if we had gone there we would have been killed but we would have had a much more wretched few days by all accounts. But as we wandered through the streets of Gaois last night, we discovered that whatever has happened in the world, life simply goes on. Music played, waiters and waitresses carried on serving and people laughed, drank and ate.
I bought a wonderful book called, “The Bleasdale WALKING MAP of PAXOS & Guide.” in the holiday reps office last night. The lady in there knew nothing of the Kalamata disaster, which just shows even in these instant news and shrinking planet times, if you don’t watch the right news channel an awful lot can pass you by. The map is superb and even has the villa we are staying in marked on it and the small sunset bar, where we paused for a drink on the west coast the other day. If it’s off the beaten track panic not it will be on this map. Now we have it in our possession only one day before we fly home; will we come back to explore more undiscovered areas? You bet your last drop of Ouzo we will.
Clutching my copy of Bleasdale, I could become the Michael Portillo of Paxos and film small documentaries on the sights and sounds I came across whilst walking the paths. I was going to say Julia Bradbury but I haven’t quite got the rear view for that!
Back to Lakka; if you want to dry your octopus leave it in the sunshine and the menu board outside young Theo’s, Adrianna being his sister and daughter of Yani. When they were both young and we were sat in Theo’s bar, partaking of Ouzo and Metaxa, at bed time the cry would go up, “ADRIANNA!” for they could never find her. Shame we never got to eat there; another reason to return soon! And we did discover from young Yunion, she has had a baby girl since the last time we visited, when she was pregnant. So we have seen (or will upon our return I hope) four generations of the Apheregliss family grow up.
The light last night in Gaios was beautiful and the waters were still. I have two more question for my sailing chums: if you are moored stern in to the quay, by the shops, tavernas and bars playing their happy but loud music; what time do you hope to get to sleep? And question two is: if your boat is due back on Wednesday and the storm hits Tuesday night and it’s impossible to sail the following day, in that you just daren’t put to sea, what happens? What happens to your return flight home and your booking costs? Just a thought.
Don’t worry the cat’s a long way away from the lizard! We ate in the square in Gaios and all the flower pots for a second night running stayed put.
The day was sunny and bright (Saturday) and we explored a little to the west of Gaios with our newly purchased map, which even names the churches as you pass them. It would be just so churlish never to come back and not ever use it again. Down a winding road and where did we emerge but opposite the Paxos club hotel where last Monday George the rep had given his little talk. What goes around comes around. Off to Loggos for lunch and we sat in the same restaurant Mary had the chat about years gone by and the late owner to his daughter.
Really narrow road and difficult to get the very smart local bus through here along the quayside but somehow they manage. In the newly acquired Bleasdales is a lovely bit about the bus service, “There is a ‘no smoking’ sign in the bus but is so positioned that the driver cannot see it. He smokes the whole time! At busy periods you may find yourself sharing a seat with a small child you have never met before and we have known two people share the driver’s seat!” Another example of Classical Greek.
We then went off and found Kipos beach, which was almost deserted; yippee. Just shows what happens when you build a bar and swimming pool at these ‘deserted’ places. Back to the villa one last dip in the pool for Malcolm and one last read in the sun for Mary.
Safe to take pictures here, no topless bathers! We ate our last meal at the flowerpot taverna. The red mullet was delicious and the waitress bad us ‘Kalo Himonas.’which means good winter. So that’s it till the next time, loads of pictures I never got to post but they’ll be in the book.
Sorry it’s one day behind again but the wi-fi just wasn’t playing ball last night.
Thank you for reading and we hope it has been mildly interesting.
Mary & Malcolm 🇬🇷🇬🇷✈️🌞